CRUISE ON THE SEINE

Beneath the romantic streets of Paris lies a darker, more mysterious world – the Paris Catacombs, an extensive network of tunnels and caves that hold the remains of more than six million former Parisians. These underground ossuaries, located 20 meters beneath the city’s surface, tell a fascinating story of Paris’s history and its struggle with overcrowded cemeteries in the 18th century.

The Catacombs began as limestone quarries, carved out over centuries to provide building materials for Paris’s grand architecture. By the late 1700s, the city faced a severe public health crisis as its cemeteries, particularly the notorious Saints-Innocents, were literally overflowing. The solution came in 1786 when city officials ordered the transfer of remains from cemeteries to these abandoned quarries, creating what would become known as the Municipal Ossuary.

The meticulous arrangement of bones and skulls was overseen by quarry inspector Charles-Axel Guillaumot, who transformed what could have been a simple mass grave into an organized and eerily artistic display. Skeletal remains were carefully stacked and arranged, creating elaborate walls of bones interspersed with decorative patterns. These arrangements weren’t merely practical; they were designed to encourage reflection on mortality and the human condition.

The entrance to the Catacombs is marked by a somber inscription: “Arrête! C’est ici l’empire de la Mort” (“Stop! This is the Empire of Death”). Beyond this warning, visitors descend 130 narrow steps into a cool, dimly lit world where the temperature remains a constant 14°C (57°F) year-round. The official route spans about 1.7 kilometers and takes visitors through only a small portion of the vast network, which extends for hundreds of kilometers beneath Paris.

Throughout history, these tunnels have served various purposes beyond their role as an ossuary. During World War II, both the French Resistance and German forces used sections of the tunnels. The Resistance established hidden bunkers, while the Germans built an underground bunker in a section beneath the 6th arrondissement. Today, unauthorized areas of the Catacombs are occasionally explored by “cataphiles” – urban explorers who illegally venture into the restricted sections of the tunnel network.

The public section of the Catacombs offers a well-curated experience that combines historical education with a unique atmospheric journey. Informative plaques and audio guides explain the site’s significance, the history of Paris’s cemeteries, and geological information about the quarries. Visitors walk through tunnels lined with carefully arranged bones, pass by altars and monuments created from skeletal remains, and experience a profound connection to Paris’s past.

Despite its macabre nature, the Paris Catacombs remain one of the city’s most popular attractions, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors annually. The site serves as both a memorial to Paris’s dead and a testament to human ingenuity in solving urban challenges. It offers a powerful reminder of our mortality while showcasing an extraordinary example of urban planning and architectural preservation that spans centuries of Parisian history.

Modern visitors should note that access is regulated to preserve the site, with limited daily tickets available. The narrow passages, humid environment, and numerous stairs make it unsuitable for those with mobility issues or claustrophobia. However, for those able to make the journey, the Catacombs offer an unforgettable glimpse into a hidden dimension of Paris’s rich history.